Never Heard of Nevis? Don’t Worry, No One Has

The Good Doctor and I recently traveled to the tiny West Indie island of Nevis. Haven’t heard of it? Neither had we until I stumbled across it while searching for interesting Caribbean islands to visit. As it happened, Nevis turned out to be a superb choice – so rustic and simple, which in turn made it one of the most beautiful and peaceful vacations we’ve ever taken. Getting to a rustic little island, however, requires long and “rustic” travel.
We had already flown to Atlanta (from Colorado Springs to Dallas to Atlanta) to visit family, so from there we began our journey to Nevis on a flight from Hartsfield to Miami International. We had a moderate 3 hour layover there. Three hours isn’t so bad when you’re in a decent sized airport. There is always plenty to look at – both things and people. Plenty of window shopping, and snacking, and of course Starbucks to cure the flight fatigue. But the 3 hour layover was just the beginning.
From Miami, we arrived in St. Kitts. Because Nevis is so small, it doesn’t have a proper airport for large jets. And that’s ok, because of the 200 people who flew into St. Kitts, Adam and I were the only two that went on to Nevis; the much smaller sister island across the channel. After clearing customs and getting our bags (entertained by large German Shepherds running up and down the luggage carousel looking for drugs) we kept our fingers crossed and went outside to meet the cabbie who would drive us to the dock to catch the boat that would take us to Nevis. Or so we hoped.
It was very dark. We could see nothing out the cab windows, as there are no street lights and virtually no buildings lit. There are no stop lights and no speed limits. We were totally at the mercy of our driver who was practicing the great skill of texting and driving. It took what felt like a lifetime to traverse the island as we headed toward the dock all the while dodging donkeys, monkeys, giant potholes, and going up and down very steep, cliff-side mountainous roads. At one point, and I kid you not, we whizzed right by a huge “ROAD CLOSED” sign.
It was at this point that I knew we were probably going to be kidnapped and held hostage. I just knew it. I should have brought a shank.
Keep tracking with me – we’re almost there.
Finally we slowed down and drove off the road, onto a beach, then literally drove down a very shaky boat dock. We were in the middle of nowhere in the Caribbean, I couldn’t see my surroundings, and the cabbie just left us there without any instructions. Were we just supposed to get on this unmarked boat and trust that we wouldn’t be thrown overboard or shoved in the hull Bloodlines style? (it’s a really good Netflix show – check it out) Alas, we weren’t kidnapped or accosted. After a 20 minute boat ride over some very choppy water, we were turned over to the house manager who then turned us over to the car rental guy who then drove us to the villa.
We made it.
It was late, we couldn’t really tell where we were, and we were tired, but we had made it. After a very long day of travel by various transportation modes, we had made it safe and sound. We woke up to this the next morning.
To say that Nevis provided the rest and relaxation that we so desperately needed is a massive understatement. There are no frills and distractions on this island. The only way to spend the day was with friendly Nevisians, beautiful beaches, and a Carib at sunset. Oh, and mosquitoes – lots and lots of mosquitoes.
When I say rustic, I really mean rustic. Check out the photos – they tell it best.
It was so daunting and exhausting getting there, but thank goodness we braved it because the entire week was just magic. A peacefulness like I’ve never known fell on that little island, and we got to experience a piece of this world so virgin in nature.
You don’t always get a direct flight to paradise. If only life were that simple, right? Sometimes you have to plane-hop, puddle-jump, wait through endless layovers, and take scary cab and boat rides in the dark. But the wait was so worth it.
We found a secluded beach and had it all to ourselves every time we went. We “grocery shopped” at a little farm hut and got to eat food freshly picked. We ate fresh seafood at beach shacks (and I mean that in the most literal way). We spent time reading books and napping. Lounging in the pool was as active as it got. We enjoyed the simplicity and happiness that such a slow pace of life affords.
Nevis isn’t for the timid, nor for those who demand a polished environment, but it is extraordinary.
Go on an adventure, folks.










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